|Chicken Care Summary
|("\(*v*)/") CARING FOR CHICKENS ("\(*v*)/")
"I think true happiness can only be found in the wanton indulgence of
animals" - Hobbes
A clean coop with white builder's sand and pine shavings & an outdoor
run of dirt & grass if possible.
A portable coop can be put around the yard if you have hawks.
We've made them from PVC (90 side out for corners) and 1/2" X 1/2"
hardware cloth (wire) (or plastic fencing, light weight)
coops should be 5 square feet each for bantams
10 square feet each for large birds
A nest box, they will share. Silkies will use a dish pan.
A complete feed, Game Bird Layena 20% or Manna Pro egg maker 18%
If you are planning to raise stronger chicks you may need the extra
protein. Even if you aren’t it’s ok to raise the protein to 20% (no higher!).
Chicks need 24% and adult Silkies need 16% - 20% protein. They also
have a 30% MannaPro Game bird show bird feed that you can mix with
the feed to the chicks or adults for a boost. Purina a natural chick
starter. Medicated feed is not recommended for Silkies.
Southern States has 21% Super Breeder and other good feed.
Organic grain recipe for organic eggs for healthier chickens and people!
(optional) You can’t do this with many chickens!! too much $$ unless you
get it by the truckload or are near an organic mill.
www.countrysidenatural.com or health food store in bulk
Corn, 2 parts whole or cracked
Wheat, 3 or 4 parts
Oats, 1 part
Sunflower seeds, 1 part hulled, 2 parts shelled
Green Lentils, 1 part
Split Peas, 1 part
Barley, 1 part
Millet, 1 part
Flax, 1 part
Seaweed or Kelp Meal, ½ part,
Powdered Organic Garlic, health and parasites
Diatomaceous Earth, food grade, for parasites/minerals
Chick starter supplement (McMurray)
Red cell for horses, 1 T. per gallon or Vita-Pro-B
Oyster shell, tough shell or calcium chips - Offer layers free choice
Granite gravel and grit - Offer chicks for digestion
WATER… FRESH everyday
with (opt): Apple Cider Vinegar (probiotic)
One sliced clove of garlic per gallon if no powdered available
Greens or grass or alfalfa hay or kelp meal
Some sunlight (good for coop to get sunlight part of the day)
Yogurt treat...can mix with oats or lentils & peas to soften them.
Or www.firststatevetsupply.com has probiotics for sale and a most
complete vitamin mineral supplement Vita-Pro-B.
also Amprol if needed for coccidiosis.
Incubate eggs at 99 ½ to 100 degrees, judge temp by length of hatch.
(21 days to hatch) Hatch in a clean incubator
Humidity 50% or more and then 65% or more at hatch time.
Chicks should be in a clean box or plastic tub with
paper towels (when just hatched) or pine shavings
change every day
grind up feed if tiny bantams (coffee grinder)
oatmeal can be used if you run out of feed
fresh water with a rock for so they can push out of the water if they fall in
at 90-95 degrees the first week of life (close red 100 watt flood)
85 the second week
80 the 3rd
75 the 4th
Make sure they can get away from the heat if it’s too hot.
Use an oblong plastic tub or cage, careful that their feet won't go through
the bottom wire and get stuck 1/2" X 1/2" or cover solid.
When chicks first hatch, I put them in a long plastic tub on paper towels
with a 100 watt red colored flood light over one end of the tub. They
need to have fresh water daily. The first couple days I put it in a peanut
butter jar cap with a rock in it to keep them from walking in it.
I dip their beaks in the water gently as soon as they hatch. They will
usually peep and taste the water and drink it. Always make sure your
newly hatched babies know where the water is! Dehydration is a killer.
Be careful not to drown them. It’s easy at this age.
The first couple days of life I grind up the chick starter if I’m feeding
bantams. Some will not eat right away, but usually start eating by the end
of the first 24 hours of life. They say chicks can go without food for a
couple days, but if you aren’t shipping them there is no need to put them
under that stress. I don't ship day old Silkies.
On the 5th week they can go outside (with heat lamps if it’s cold) and
clean shavings if the weather is ok. 8 weeks is better.
Feed Chick Starter around 20% – 24% until they are 8 weeks.
Also have granite gravel and grit for them at all times. They need it to
digest their food. Fresh water daily.
At 8 weeks they are usually fully feathered and can go outside without a
lamp if the weather is OK.
Feed them Grower at 20 to 24% until they are about 6 to 7 months.
When they start laying you should switch them to Layer at about 18 %. If
you plan to hatch chicks, mix with Game Bird starter or layena to raise the
protein for stronger chicks. Or you can feed them other protein to boost
the percentage, such as cooked egg. Always offer oyster shell free
choice to laying hens.
Lots of good information can be found in the articles on Alan Stanford’s
site www.browneggblueegg.com such as Wheat or Oat treats...
In hot hot weather, a fan & vitamins would be nice… Cold weath
er is when mites might become a problem. Dust lightly with garden dust
with Permethrins and again in 10 days to break the cycle making sure n
ot to get it in their eyes. Dust the coop sand. A once a month prevent
ative dust might be a good idea. arbicco.com organics
Also Countryside Natural has a DE w/pyrethrins dust. You don’t want to
put so much on that the chickens are inhaling it.
Follow worming and vaccination recommendations for your area.
Peter Brown, Chicken Doctor, 1-410-546-6137 anytime
www.firststatevetsupply.com or www.askthechickendoctor.com
He may be on BlogTalkRadio.com "The Chicken Whisperer"
He has a degree in Poultry Science and over 40 years of doctoring and
studying chickens, keeping our pets and show chickens well. Quite a bit
Florida Dept of Agriculture, National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP)
They test your birds yearly for free in my area.
Tips for keeping new chicken arrivals healthy and happy:
Start them out on fresh clean bedding, free from bacteria of the new
area. Gradually introduce dirty bedding from other areas so they may
build up a resistance to the new bacteria. Supplement feed with vitamins
and probiotics for a little help to get through this stressful time. This tip is
from Doris, the APA Youth Coordinator... thanks Doris!
When I get a new one, I wash them to make sure they don't have bugs,
treat them for coccidiosis and quarantine them for at least 2 weeks in a
cage so I can check their pooh for anything unusual.
Everyone that owns chickens should read an article on
One more thing to consider: When building a coop for your new
chickens… don’t forget that just about every varmint loves chicken….
Hawks, Owl, snakes, opossum, fox, mink, weasels, raccoon,
marmot, dogs, cats, coyotes, bobcat… maybe even armadillo.
You need to make a coop that is completely enclosed for them to sleep
in… and if they are bantams, their run also needs to be. I bury the wire
on the outside down into the ground about a foot or so and then back out
towards you another couple feet. This way if something tries to dig into
the coop it will hit wire and give up. I use ½” X ½” hardware cloth.
Poultry wire is useless!!! Raccoon and Fox will scare the chickens to the
side of the coop and snatch them right through chicken wire… or at least
part of them…. If chickens are raised off of the ground over wire, their
toes can be snatched. Sad, but true. I hear it all too often. Be careful.
The following comments are copied from someone's web chats:
A while back I took my Frizzle Rooster to my Avian vet for a pedicure,
because his spurs were sooooo HUGE, I was afraid to cut them...Filing
would have been futile. (You can twist them off with pliers)
She said he had mites. I said IMPOSSIBLE!
She scraped his scaly feet and under the microscope, showed me the
creepy crawly gross, crab like yucky's. At the time, I didn't think scaly feet
had anything to do with mites. And because they can’t be seen with the
naked eye....who'd have thunk it? Momma Frizzle had scaly feet, too.
Anyway, her prescription:
4 CC/ML Ivermectin (1% INJECTABLE) in ONE gallon of water, 3 days,
repeat in 14 days. No other source of water should be provided.
Their feet, looked like new born baby feet after about a
week. The scale just disappeared.
Vet also said that if they have any mites of their body's they would
bite and die from the Ivermectin.
Same treatment for Coccidia, by the way.
I've NEVER had a mite, lice or any creepy crawly problem.
Hope this helps.
I use it everyday!!!! It's a temp./ Humidity prob made by Cooper-Atkins
Corp. located in Middlefield, CT. The unit is called a Temp/Humidity
Digital Instrument model #SRH77A. It's the most accurate one you can
buy. You can use it on any incubator because it's portable. all you need
is a small hole to stick the probe into. You press a button and it will jump
between the temp and humidity readings. You can plug it in. You won't be
sorry if you get one! I've used every kind of temp/humidity device you can
find, and it's by far one of the best investments I've made, along with the
"Buddy" portable heart monitor for eggs.
I've read on Dr. Mercola's website about a study that said using
regular 3% H2O2 followed by spraying with vinegar did a better job of
disinfecting kitchen counter tops than bleach did. This is what I now use
for coops and water fonts.
I have been using the following steps to disinfect since 2001:
1. houses / coops are rested at least 21 days after disinfecting
2. I start the process by using a burner and burn off all the dander, etc.
3. Then the house is washed down using soft soap and water
4. Then I spray with vinegar followed by H2O2 and leave to biodegrade
One of the best first books can be obtained from the library or used
online called, "Chickens In Your Backyard". It is a short and fun read and
so worth the time. You will avoid lots of problems the more you know.
More great informative sites
Check them out! and have a blessed day!
I am also on Facebook as Bobbi Porto and Indigo Egg
|Do YOU know the basics?